Hartford Historical Photograph Links

Geer’s 1899 Hartford City Directory

Hartford County, Connecticut Online Historical Directories – Others, as well as the 1899 directory above.

CT State Library’s Flickr photostream – Others of interest, but especially the Thompson photo set.

William H. Thompson Photographs of Hartford, 1903-1906 – a set from the CT State Library (above). 99 black and white photographs of central Hartford. many from the now-destroyed Front Street neighborhood, bounded by Morgan Street, the river, State Street, and Main Street. Mostly taken at intersections, of the streets themselves, so the buildings are not central to most views.

Connecticut Historical Maps and Atlases – Very detailed (building by building) maps of Hartford and other cities. Hartford maps from 1917, 1909, and earlier.

Hartford Public Library Digital Collections – Navigation at the Hartford Public Library site is very tricky. But this link (as of Jan. 2013) links to two nice photo sets: Hartford: The Making of a City, 1900-1930, and Reflection of The Times (photos from The Hartford Times between 1950-1976).

The killing of America’s cities – in one photograph

Phoenix Mutual Life Building

Downtown Hartford CT, Constitution Plaza, mid 1960s

This is the moment it happened. … BANG!

Our great cities did not inevitably decay after WW2 and inexplicably become hollowed-out, concrete wastelands. Deliberate, misguided policy decisions in the mid-20th century killed them. What’s more, our cities were not destroyed by brown people who invaded and wrecked them; the policy-makers of the era were all white guys. Their actions set in motion the demise of urban centers, wrecking both the cities’ physical structure and the lives of their latest arrivals.

Hartford
Above is a picture of downtown Hartford Connecticut, taken about 1966. The new Phoenix Mutual Life Building, rising from Constituion Plaza, dominates the area. In the background are a few of Hartford remaining gritty old industrial and commercial buildings. Also in the background is Interstate Highway 91 running along the Connecticut River. The whole scene is a tribute to the discredited vision of Le Corbusier and Robert Moses: a city devoid of pedestrians, dominated by towers, highways, and automobiles.

This photo captures the moment of Hartford’s execution, just as the famous picture of South Vietnamese General Nguyen Ngoc Loan shooting the Viet Cong prisoner in the head.

Front Street in the Thirties

Hartford, Front Street with pushcarts in 1930s

Hartford, Front Street with pushcarts in 1930s

Up until the late 1950s, the area of downtown Hartford between Front Street and the river was a largely Italian, working class neighborhood. It was filled with retail stores, homes, small businesses, and the other parts of a living city. But it was close to the river and subject to flooding. Its people were lower income, not the influential WASPs who ran Hartford’s insurance companies and the city as well. Front Street was considered a “blighted slum.”

After World War Two, the national trend was “urban renewal,” which turned out to be a euphemism for urban destruction. Suburbs, cars, highways, were the thing. Robert Moses, the now-infamous New York City planner and builder, set the example there for the rest of the country: build highways, build towers, accommodate automobile traffic, and tear down anything in the way of such so-called progress.

And so they did in Hartford. Like Joni Mitchell sang, “They paved paradise and put up a parking lot.” The Front Street neighborhood was wiped out and replaced with Constitution Plaza, whose elegant raised concourses emphatically had nothing to do with the city streets below. Nor did the office workers, who drove in from the suburbs in the morning, parked in the garages, and scooted back in the evening, unsullied by the city.

The Ship Building
The details of the photograph testify eloquently about these events and their results. Start with the Phoenix Mutual Life building. Taken by itself, it’s clever, beautiful, and spectacular, “the world’s only two-sided building,” we used to call it. Its shimmering, continuous, glass windows reflected the surroundings. You can actually see the reflection of the snowy cityscape in its tall, curving surface. Standing tall and proud in its square plaza and sunken courtyard. Notice that the building is not set obviously in the middle of the court, but is neatly offset, spanning both levels. As an isolated work of architecture, it’s impressive.

Automobiles
Quite a few cars were moving through Hartford that winter day. Four in the foreground, on State Street. A dozen cars zip along I-91 in the background. About fifty more were parked in the empty lots along Front Street. More garages came later.

People
Not one pedestrian clutters up this microcosm of the “city of the future.” But wait, you say, there is one human being, on the wide, snow-covered sidewalk in the foreground. Look more carefully. He is not a user of the city; he is a maintenance worker, pushing a snow-blower to clear a pathway, a path to nowhere and for no one, from the looks of things. I wonder if they even bother any more to clear the snow from the empty concourses of Constitution Plaza. Who would know?

In the background, some old buildings sit forlornly, awaiting the wrecker’s ball in a year, or ten.

And so it went. Hartford Connecticut was killed, along with scores of our other cities.

It did not have to be so.

Interstate Highways
The interstates could have still been built, but could have gone around cities, instead of cutting through them, like I-84 in Hartford, the Cross Bronx Expressway in New York, and dozens of other city-maiming highways. I-84 is not shown in this picture; it runs a few blocks away, severing the North End (Hartford’s Black neighborhood) from the central city. Could it have been tunnelled under the city? Or less expensively swept around to the northern fringe of the city? Note that I-91, running along the river and existing train tracks on the city’s periphery, did less damage. An interstate highway system needed to be built in the 1950s; we still need it today. But it could have gone around, not through, the hearts of our cities.

Phoenix Mutual, Travelers, and Hartford’s other big employers wanted office space. Nothing wrong with office buildings; jobs are a good thing for cities. Plop the buildings right down in the middle of city neighborhoods. It’s called “mixed use.” (And replace whatever buildings necessary; office buildings can’t float in the sky.) With an inhabited, actual city around, the office workers would have a place to eat lunch. And perhaps even be able to live nearby; living in the suburbs would not be the only reasonable option. And Front Street? What if was all gentrified, and re-made into some silly “Old Riverfront Little Italy,” replete with overpriced restaurants, boutiques, and yuppies converting brownstones into condos? … Compared to what has happened, that would be great.

It’s a sad statement on human nature, or perhaps just on American postwar urban governance, but what happened to our cities was not pre-ordained. Central cities could still be vibrant, safe, attractive places where middle class people live and raise families.

Here’s just one policy decision. In 1949, Congress passed a Housing Act; its Title I provided for Federal funding for urban renewal, i.e. slum clearance and provision of better housing for the people. Sounds good. But what happened? Title I money funded places like Constitution Plaza, which did not provide any housing, just office space. There were many more influential policies that literally drove middle-class people out of the cities.

While this single photo illustrates many of the issues, one blog post cannot begin to cover the topic. For more on the subject, read Jane Jacobs’ The Death and Life of Great American Cities, and Robert Caro’s The Power Broker – Robert Moses and the Fall of New York. Or watch New York: A Documentary Film by Ric Burns for PBS television, especially episodes 5, 6, and 7.

I posted several “Then and Now” photos of Hartford on this blog. Not merely to idealize the “Good Old Days,” but to show the city buildings and streets that could have been built upon and added to, rather than obliterated. As for Constitution Plaza, it went into foreclosure in July, 2012. Maybe it should be torn down and replaced with mixed-use, low-rise, pedestrian-friendly, brownstone buildings.

State Street – Two Landmarks

1906

State Street, east of Main, in 1906

State Street, east of Main, in 1906

2008

State Street Square in 2008

State Street Square in 2008

Aerial view of State Street Square, 2008

Aerial view of State Street Square, 2008

1906 View

Wikipedia has a nice photo of the old Post Office. U.S. Post Office and Customhouse in 1903. Completed in 1882. Supervising Architect: Alfred B. Mullet The U.S. District Court for the District of Connecticut met here until 1933. The building was razed in 1934. The Post Office is currently housed across the street, next to the FNB building.

Panoramio has a good photo of the surviving facade of the old First National Bank building. More on Hartford’s old FNB building from Historic Buildings of Connecticut. Designed by Ernest Flagg and completed in 1899, the Beaux Arts-style First National Bank building had a fireproof construction consisting of steel structural columns and cinder-covered brick vaults under the floors. The facade of the building has survived to become part of State House Square.

Storefronts

H.P. Hitchcock

Kashmann’s (with much of the extra advertising, shown in the 1903 photo, removed.)

Hartford: State Street looking east

State St. east of Front in 1903 alt

State St. east of Front St. (now Columbus Blvd) in 1903

State St. looking across Columbus Blvd in 2008

State St. looking across Columbus Blvd in 2008

1903
At the far end of State Street, the New York, New Haven, and Hartford (NYNHH) railroad bridge goes over the street.
About 13 people are visible, including two small boys and one woman in the foreground.
Storefronts include D.G. Stoughton & Son, Williams & Carleton, and Garvan Paper.
Buildings are 3, 4, and 5 stories, of brick or masonry construction.

Photo courtesy CT State Library Flickr Photo Set – William H. Thompson Photographs of Hartford, 1903-1906

2008
Front Street has been renamed Columbus Boulevard.

Hartford’s Market Street – 1904 and 2008

Market St. south of Talcott St. in 1904

Market St. south of Talcott St. in 1904

Market Street in 2008

Market Street in 2008

1904 View

This 1917 building map of Hartford from Historic Map Works identifies the building in the left foreground, at the street corner as belonging to Donato Saraia. Note the way the building is set slightly obliquely to the curb line, visible in both the map and photo.

Note the early electric arc street lamp overhead and the streetcar tracks running down Market Street.

No people in view.

Photo courtesy CT State Library Flickr Photo Set – William H. Thompson Photographs of Hartford, 1903-1906

2008 View
Visible on the right is the old St. Anthony’s Church; it was there in 1904, but hidden by other buildings in the old photo.

Morgan Street – 1903 and 2008

Hartford, CT – Then and Now

Morgan St. looking west in 1903

Morgan St. looking west in 1903

Morgan St. looking west in 2008

Morgan St. looking west in 2008

1903 View

St. Anthony’s R.C. Church on north (right) side of street, about halfway to Main Street
streetcar and horse-drawn wagon in foreground
18+ people are visible, two on bicycles
#84 K. Greenberg, Wholesale | … Clothing | Retail
#84 (ground floor) Harry Bland? Bicycle Repair, note pram out front

Chicago Dressed Beef, south side of street, left foreground

Note the tangle of electric wires and poles, and early electric arc street lamp.

Photo courtesy CT State Library Flickr Photo Set – William H. Thompson Photographs of Hartford, 1903-1906

2008 View

Morgan Street is now an access ramp to Interstate I-84

Another view of Morgan Street in 1903

Morgan St., west of railroad bridge, in 1903

Morgan St., west of railroad bridge, in 1903

Hartford, CT – 1903 and 2008

North side of State Street, seen from Main Street

1903

Hartford, CT 1903, Main and State streets

Hartford, CT 1903, Main and State streets

2008

Hartford, CT 2008, Main and State streets

Hartford, CT 2008, Main and State streets

1903
Buildings:
Four 4-story buildings

One corner wrap-around building

Storefronts:
John Rundbaken – Real Estate Broker;

#4, City Coal Co.;
Crane Dentist;
Cigars;
#10 H.P. Hitchcock; P. Johnson – Tailor; A.J. Glazier;
#12 Kashmann’s Store: Coats & Vests, A Large Assortment of Hosiery …, A Complete Line of Hats & Caps, Neckwear Stock …, Butchers Frocks & Aprons, Waiters’ Outfit, A Fine Line of … 50 cents and up
… Ticket Agency
E. Gundlach & Co.

Billboards and Rooftop Signs
corner – Wilson’s High Ball, That’s All
Elihu Geers Sons – City Directory [rooftop sign];

Photo courtesy CT State Library Flickr Photo Set – William H. Thompson Photographs of Hartford, 1903-1906

2008
On the Street:
23+ people, mostly men, but including a few women, all wearing hats
one horse-drawn wagon
streetcar tracks in roadbed

State Street in this area has made into a pedestrian-only plaza
9 people are visible
One city bus
A glass-enclosed arcade fronts a jumble of stark, brown marble & glass faced office buildings.